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Morocco

Derek Johnson's trip notes from Morocco: Marrakech medinas, Fes souks, the Sahara, and what it takes to actually enjoy a country that doesn't slow down.

Trip Notes

Morocco had been on our list for years, and we finally squeezed in a short Marrakech trip out of our Lisbon base in February 2026. Three nights, just the medina, and honestly that felt like the right dose. The flight from Lisbon is only a few hours, but stepping out into the souks is a complete change of world.

We stayed at Riad Dar Mo'da inside the medina, which we'd recommend without hesitation. The riad itself is this calm little courtyard hidden behind a totally unassuming door, and the staff basically planned our entire trip for us. Every lunch, every dinner, the spa, the car service — all booked by the concierge before we arrived. After a few trips where we did all the legwork ourselves, letting someone else handle the reservations in a place where you genuinely cannot find anything without help was the right call.

Food was the highlight. Lunch at Le Jardin on arrival day set the tone — it's this leafy green oasis in the middle of the chaos. We had dinner at La Terrasse des Épices our first night, lunch at Dar Dar on the rooftop, and dinners at Nomad and Dar Yacout. Coffee at Dar El Bacha inside the Musée des Confluences is worth the stop even if you don't tour the museum.

We did an Airbnb 'hidden gems' walking tour that met in front of Café Argana on Jemaa el-Fnaa, then wandered through Bahia Palace in the afternoon. Jemaa el-Fnaa at night is exactly as chaotic as everyone says — worth seeing once, not twice. The medina itself is the real attraction; you get lost, you find a tucked-away coffee shop, you get lost again.

There are endless things to do and look at in Morocco — hammams, food tours, sunset rooftops, and even just wandering through the maze of the medina, . If you're going to Morocco for the first time, three or four nights in a good riad in the Marrakech medina with a concierge handling your reservations is the move — I wouldn't try to wing this one.