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South Korea

Derek Johnson's trip notes from South Korea: Seoul neighborhoods, Korean BBQ, palaces, and a country that nails food, fashion, and tech in equal measure.

Trip Notes

Seoul has become one of our favorite stops of our Asia trips, partly because we've now experienced it in a few completely different ways.

The first time we visited together was during an earlier Asia trip in 2023, where we stayed in Myeongdong and did many of the classic first-time Seoul experiences: walking through Namdaemun Market, visiting N Seoul Tower at night, exploring the major shopping streets, and trying as much Korean food as possible. Like most people visiting Seoul for the first time, I remember being immediately overwhelmed in the best way possible — neon everywhere, restaurants on every block, endless energy, and somehow an entirely different café or dessert shop every fifty feet.

When we returned a couple of years later as part of a longer Asia trip, the city felt completely different because we approached it differently. This time we stayed at the Westin Josun Parnas in Gangnam and spent more time settling into neighborhoods instead of trying to race through a sightseeing checklist.

One thing that stood out immediately about Seoul is how much the city rewards wandering. Some of our favorite memories weren't major attractions at all, but simply walking through different neighborhoods, finding coffee shops, ducking into random restaurants, and seeing how dramatically one part of the city could differ from another.

We spent a lot of time in Seongsu-dong, which is often described as the Brooklyn of Seoul, though honestly that comparison doesn't fully capture how uniquely Korean it feels. Old industrial buildings have been transformed into cafés, design stores, and fashion spaces, and the entire neighborhood has this creative energy that made it one of our favorite parts of the city. Places like Onion Seongsu and the Gentle Monster flagship felt less like stores and more like experiences.

Food was obviously a huge highlight. We had everything from casual local soup spots to incredibly elevated Korean barbecue tasting meals. One of the standout dinners of the trip was Byeokje Galbi in Gangnam, which gave me a completely different appreciation for Korean beef. At the other end of the spectrum, some of our favorite meals were still the simpler neighborhood places packed with locals.

Another thing I appreciated about Seoul was the contrast everywhere throughout the city. Ancient Buddhist temples sitting across from giant modern skyscrapers. Quiet alleyways a few blocks away from massive shopping districts. Tiny traditional restaurants hidden underneath futuristic office towers. Seoul somehow manages to feel hyper-modern and deeply traditional at the same time.

And despite being one of the largest cities in the world, it also felt surprisingly approachable once we settled into it. The cafés, the walkability within neighborhoods, the affordability of transportation, and the overall efficiency of the city made daily life there feel easier than I expected.

A few practical notes if you're visiting: download NAVER Maps before you arrive because Google Maps is extremely limited in Korea, and don't underestimate how much time you'll want for simply exploring neighborhoods without a strict plan. Seoul is one of those cities where some of the best moments happen between the attractions.